Ωραιότατο πέτσωμα ,συμμετρικό και άρτιο .Καλή συνέχεια ,αναμένουμε με ενδιαφέρον!!!
Σας ευχαριστώ και εγώ αναμένω να το δω τελειωμένο παρόλα τα λάθη που θα γίνουν.
Taking shape... Really nice work 
Thank you very much
Πολυ καλη δουλεια Maria-Frederica!!! Καλη συνεχεια!
Ευχαριστώ Κύριε Γιάννη
Μαρία καλό βράδυ κι από μένα
θέλω να σε ρωτήσω αν πετσώνοντας τη γάστρα εκατέρωθεν έβαλες στο μέσο της απόστασης κουπαστής-καρίνας κάποια σανίδα εξαρχής ή απλά "κατεβαίνεις" βάζοντας σανίδες προοδευτικά από την κουπαστή κι "ανεβαίνεις" από την καρίνα, μέχρι να συναντηθούν.
Ευχαριστώ
Δεν έβαλα τίποτε εκατέρωθεν.
aρχισα από το πάνω μέρος τοποθετώντας τις σανίδες προσαρμόζοντας τες μπροστά και πίσω εκεί που χρειαζόταν. Σε μερικά σημεία έχουν τοποθετηθεί stealers αλλά δεν φαίνονται καλά στις φωτογραφίες.
Μόλις οι σανίδες ήταν αδύνατο να τοποθετηθούν από πάνω προς τα κάτω, δηλαδή όταν έβαζα μια σανίδα και αυτή καβάλαγε όλη επάνω στην προηγούμενη μπρος και πίσω σταμάτησα και ξεκίνησα από την καρίνα και προς τα πάνω.
Σε κάποιο σημείο οι σανίδες θα συναντηθούν και θα μείνει στο μέσον ένα κενό το οποίο θα το γεμίσω με κατάλληλα διαμορφωμένες σανίδες.
Στα πραγματικά πλοία δεν τοποθετούσαν την σανίδα εάν αυτή διαμορφώνοντάς την γινόταν λιγότερο από το μισό σε πλάτος από την κανονική σανίδα (δηλαδή αν είχαμε μια σανίδα 4 πόντους φάρδος δεν έπρεπε να διαμορφωθεί κάτω από τους δύο πόντους φάρδος), ούτε και έφτιαχναν σανίδες σε στυλ οδοντογλυφίδας γιατί υπήρχε πρόβλημα το πως θα την κρατήσουν πάνω στο σκάφος. Χρησιμοποιούσαν τα stealers και τα joggle plank.
Τα stealer αυξάνουν τον αριθμό των σανίδων που καταλήγουν στο στέρνο (πρύμνη).
Τα joggle plank χρησιμοποιούνται για να διευκολύνουν την ομαλή ροή δύο σανίδων ως την πλώρη, δηλαδή να μην στενέψουν πολύ οι σανίδες (πάνω από το μισό των σανίδων πετσώματος).
Οι κεντρικοί νομείς είναι οι πιο μεγάλοι σε εύρος σανίδων και όσο πάμε προς πλώρη και πρύμνη γίνονται πιο μικροί. Για παράδειγμα εάν στον κεντρικό νομέα πρέπει να μπουν 10 σανίδες τότε θα διαπιστώσεις ότι μπροστά και πίσω δεν θα χωράνε ολόκληρες 10 σανίδες, άρα με κάποιον τρόπο θα πρέπει να τοποθετηθούν ή να χρησιμοποιηθούν κατάλληλες διαμορφωμένες σφήνες που πολλές φορές καταλήγουν να είναι σαν οδοντογλυφίδες.
Πράττεις δηλαδή αναλόγως είτε βάζεις stealer είτε joggle plank.
Σου παραθέτω δύο φωτογραφίες καθώς και ένα κείμενο του Chris Watton στα Αγγλικά.
First planking
The first planking should now be ready to be laid using 1.5x7mm lime wood strip. The first or 'master plank' is to be laid at the bottom edge of the lower gun port pattern as shown. Because the plywood bulkheads are very strong, it is recommended that 0.5mm holes are drilled into the bulkheads before the insertion of the pins. When pushing the brass pins into the planks and bulkheads, leave at least half of the pin length protruding so they can be easily pulled out using a pair of flat nose pliers once the planks are secure. Glue the planks using PVA wood glue.
The first four or so planks each side should be relatively straight forward to apply as only mild tapering is required. As you start down and along to the curved area of the bow, you will notice that planks will need to be tapered to follow the natural run of the planks. In order to determine the amount of taper needed for each plank to lie naturally, lay a plank at the fifth or sixth bulkhead and then lay it around the bow. Mark the excess area of plank that overlaps the one directly above it. Repeat this technique for the stern also. Although the planks may not require tapering at the stern, it is advisable to let the planks run as natural as possible which helps avoid any possible 'springing' of the planks when sanding. Before cutting the taper into the planks, soak them in warm water for half an hour or so as this minimises the chance of the blade of the knife following the grain of the wood rather than the edge of the steel rule. Lay the first wet plank to be tapered on a clean, flat surface; (a cutting mat would be perfect and is highly recommended). Press firmly with a steel rule onto the marked taper line on the plank and score down the line with a heavy duty craft knife several times until the excess is cut off. Pin and glue the tapered planks into position on the hull, leaving a little excess at the stern which can be trimmed to shape once the planking is complete. Glue two or three strips each side alternately. This technique should prevent any possible twisting/warping of the frames and keel during the glue curing process.
Use this planking technique right down to the keel. When planking is almost complete, triangular shaped gaps at the stern will be apparent. This was also the case in full size practise, although not so simplified. The use of triangular shaped planks is needed for the gap in-between the top and bottom edges of the planks, usually near the stern. The correct name for these triangular shaped planks is called stealers. Cut these to shape using the excess lime wood from the ends of the planking and glue them into the gaps. Trim off the excess stern planks to shape and leave the hull for the glue to fully cure for at least 24 hours (48 hours is recommended).
Second Planking
The second planking is applied using 1mm x 5mm walnut. It is recommended by the designer that the planking should start from the top edge of the previously marked out main wale position and work down towards and up to the keel. (Or, alternatively, as shown on the drawings, start the second planking at the top edge of the upper gunport patterns). Use the same planking techniques as the first planking, with the exception that the whole under surface of the plank is to be glued to the first planking, as well as edge to edge.
The best glue to use for the second planking is medium to thick cyano gel. This is to avoid any pin holes, which would have to be filled in prior to painting. Cyano will stick the planks as well, if not better than wood glue. Greater care however is needed to attain a very neat finish to minimise the need for filling.
Once the planking from the main wale downwards has been completed, the area above the main wale can be planked. This area should be relatively easy, as there is very little to no tapering required, due to the planks following the curvature of the main wale. However, much care is needed to attain as neat a job as possible, to help reduce the need for filling and sanding once planking is complete.
Try not to completely cover the openings for the gun ports as the planking progresses up (or down, depending on which planking method you are using) the hull. Leave an opening large enough for a knife and file to be inserted to open out the gunport openings once planking has been completed. Plank to the top edge of the bulwarks and trim all the excess protruding along the edges when complete.
Once the second planking is complete, sand the hull down with medium grit, followed by fine grit abrasive paper. Carefully cut the gun port openings to their final shape using a sharp craft knife. Finish off trimming the gun port openings using a flat needle file.
The main wale (The widest belt of extra planking that runs along the entire length of the hull, just above the waterline) can now be fixed into place. Start at the top of the marked main wale position by using two strips of 1x4mm walnut, followed by two strips of 1x5mm walnut for the lower two strips. Finally, add a strip of 0.5x3mm walnut per side, that should be fixed abut to the top edge of the upper-most wale planking strip, as shown (This thin plank was called a 'strake'). As with the main planking, it is advisable to soak the planks in warm water to make them more pliable before fixing in place with the use of cyano glue. When the wale is complete, sand the belt smooth and fill and sand again if required.
Next, mark the position and plank the upper wale in-between the two tiers of gun ports. This wale is made up from two strips of 1mm x 4mm and one strip of 1x5mm walnut per side. When the two sets of wales are complete, sand them smooth using fine grit abrasive paper. Fill any slight gaps with wood filler and sand back until completely smooth. If you intend painting the hull, any imperfections will show up more than if the hull is simply varnished.
hope that helps,
Chris
